How much does it cost to instruct a company to install roofline fascia, bargeboard and soffit boards?
These boards are located on the edge of the roof overhang and are used to support the first row of tiles and guttering. Timber was a popular material but for the last two decades, Upvc plastic has been the preferred choice as it won’t rot.
Here is a brief overview of what you get for your money. Keep reading to see how much it all costs.
- Erect the scaffold or access towers up to the desired work height
- Remove the existing fascias, soffits and rainwater goods
- Replace any rot to roof rafter feet
- Secure soffits bargeboards and fascias to rafters with fixings
- Install guttering and rainwater pipe
- Fit new felt and vents to the eaves level
- Dispose of waste
Scaffold – most installers will have their own access equipment, this is usually an access tower which can be easily erected to the height of the roof. Boards and handrails can be used to extend the platform over obstacles such as conservatories. On rare occasions, perhaps due to an inaccessible area that is too high or above a public footpath, a scaffold company may be brought in to erect more heavy duty equipment.
Remove the existing boards and gutters – we feel the best approach is to fully remove the existing boards rather than “over-cladding” on top of them, although in some circumstances this approach would be acceptable; for example, if the existing boards are fairly new or in excellent condition.
Replace rot – the rafters are a structural part of the roof and responsible for supporting the entire roof above. The lower part of the rafter is often exposed to the elements and any rot should be cut off and replaced. As a general rule of thumb; if your existing fascia boards are showing signs of rot, there is a good chance of at least some rot spreading to the rafter feet.
Fitting the boards – the soffits, bargeboards and fascias are secured to the rafters with stainless steel nails that will never rot or degrade. These boards come in 5-metre lengths and are joined with a special cover strip that leaves an allowance for thermal expansion.
Guttering – the gutters are always installed at a slight angle so rainwater flows into the outlets and vertical pipes that carry the water to ground level. The bracket spacing is also important as too far apart and the gutter may sag during heavy rainfall or snow. We feel a good limit is 800mm although many installers choose 1000mm spacings. All joints and outlets should also be held in place with screws to prevent thermal movement.
Vents and eaves – vents help to reduce or prevent condensation in the loft, there are several options to choose from; some visible and some hidden behind the gutter. Eaves felt overlaps into the guttering and should always be replaced as the existing felt will mostly be rotten at this exposed part of the roof.
Waste disposal – there is a lot of waste from a typical roofline installation, your installer will probably need one trip to a waste disposal or in some cases, they may hire a skip.
Any Extra Potential Costs/Work Not Described Above?
Below is a list of four optional extras that will incur additional cost:
Replace the cement – gables, valleys and roof ridges are where cement is located and if it’s in poor condition, should be replaced.
Blocked drains – blockages underground mean that your new gutters may overflow. A flush is both quick and cheap but a more serious blockage could result in a new pipe and/or soakaway being installed at extra cost.
Leaf guards and filters – these prevent leaves and other bits of debris from entering the gutters. Theses are an optional extra but worth considering if you have a lot of overhanging trees close to your roof.
Woodgrain effect coloured boards – Mahogany and Rosewood woodgrain effect coloured boards cost more than plain white ones.
Before We Reveal The Price – How Much do You Think a New Roofline Will Cost?
The poll below is optional but we would like to know how much you think a new roofline to a semi detached house will cost.
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Cost to Replace Fascias, Soffits Bargeboards and Gutters
To remove and replace the boards and rainwater gutters as described on this page, we believe the cost to be:
|Terraced house 11m||£1100.00|
|Semi detached 24m||£1950.00|
|Small detached 34m||£2750.00|
|Medium detached 44m||£3500.00|
|Large detached 54m||£4100.00|
|Small porch||Add £250.00|
|Large porch||Add £400.00|
|Single garage or ground floor extension||Add £800.00|
|Double garage||Add £1600.00|
Breaking Down the Cost – Semi-Detached House 24m
Here we break down the cost into materials, labour, waste disposal, net profit and VAT for an installation to a semi-detached house:
joiners and corner sections £8.00
felt and vents £35.00
guttering and rainwater pipes £95.00
fixings and adhesive £23.00
labour 2 days £460.00
waste disposal £80.00
net profit (before fuel, running costs, employers NI contributions, pension contributions and other legal requirements, salesman’s commission etc) £740.00
Here is a statement from one of our friends who has several years experience in the roofline industry:
£100 per linear metre is a good starting point when estimating the cost of a new roofline. The cost per metre will reduce for larger projects. Bungalows can be priced a little lower as they are often so easy to work on.
You’ll Probably Pay a Different Amount…
You’ll probably end up paying more than our suggested price if any of the following situations apply to you:
- woodgrain effect boards such as Rosewood or Mahogany cost more to manufacture
- your property is a town house and requires extra scaffold
- your property requires an unusual scaffold set up, perhaps blocking a public footpath or similar
- you need to pay for the removal of old Asbestos soffits (these were used up until the late 1980’s)
- the company you chose to install the products is a national company with more overheads (sales staff, advertising etc)
- the roof overhang is unusually wide and you need extra large soffit boards
How Long Does the Work Take?
A single person working alone will fit around 10 metres per day including erecting and dismantling the access towers.
A team of two people can achieve around 15 metres per day.
Additional time is needed for a site survey to take measurements and also time to collect the materials from a supplier and unload them.
Low-level work such as porches, garages and ground floor extensions are quicker to complete as less scaffold is required:
|Semi detached||two and half days|
|Small detached||three to four days|
|Large detached||five days +|
|Single garage||less than one day|
|Double garage||one and half days.|
|Capping aka overcladding||under half the time for full replacement|
Asbestos – How Common Is It?
Some soffit boards manufactured prior to the early 1990’s contain a small amount of Asbestos.
This Asbestos is contained within cement and is manufactured into a sturdy board that’ll never rot and has a long lifespan.
There are millions of houses in the United Kingdom that have Asbestos soffits secured to their roofline. It is generally considered safe if left alone but poses a significant risk if:
- it’s sanded prior to painting.
- it’s drilled, perhaps to secure a light in place or for a cable.
- removed and broken up into smaller pieces without adequate provisions
We have a separate guide to removing and disposing of Asbestos legally, including a price guide.
Should Old Fascia and Soffit Boards be Removed or “Capped/Overclad”?
In most cases it’s best to fully remove the old roofline boards and this is the most common practice.
There are however, a few exceptions when it’s best to leave the boards in place and fix new boards directly on top of them:
- if the original roof rafters are so flimsy and the timber fascia is acting as a structural support to the eaves area, then it should be left in place.
- if removing Asbestos soffits is likely to produce a lot of dust and would be costly, you could leave them in place and overclad them. This is known as Asbestos encapsulation.
- some soffit boards are secured directly to the ceiling plaster and while this is unusual, removing the soffits could damage the ceiling.
Here is a quote from Matthew, one of our friends who has over 15 years experience in the roofline business:
during my 15 years in this trade I’ve seen about five or six houses where it would’ve been best to leave the old boards in place. For all the other roofs, we recommended removing and full replacing them.
Try Our Budgeting Spreadsheet
We have created a spreadsheet you can use to calculate the cost of your roofline installation. We also provide links to popular websites where you can order all the materials you need.
Get an Online Price
As with all our researched prices on this site, we have done our best to break down the costs and charges involved with this type of work.
To start sourcing fixed written quotes for fascias and soffits that are based on your location and roof size, just hit the link below:
Yes. These boards are actually white but they have a coloured and textured laminate adhered to the surface.
This process increases the cost of the boards and other materials such as trims and joiners by around 25-30%.
We have done our best to explore the costs involved with replacing roofline boards and gutters but have estimated the net profit margins any company would be looking to make.
How much your company charges will depend on their overheads and how many staff they have. middle management and office staff along with sales people can add considerable running costs to any business, so expect a larger "national" company to charge more than we have suggested.
By the same token, a smaller firm with fewer overheads may charge less. Also, firms operating below the VAT threshold do not need to charge this tax.
Asbestos is never used in fascias which are usually timber or plastic but was once used in the manufacturing of soffit boards.
These boards can be safely overcladded provided the material is not disturbed.
To completely remove them, a licensed asbestos remover should be used.
Due to the sheer number of houses with asbestos soffits, there are several roofline installers who are licensed to remove the boards and we believe they would be cheaper than a general Asbestos remover.
Our excellent guide to Asbestos removal costs is a great place to start.
The Health and Safety Executive has also several guides worth exploring.
Swish and Celuform are well-known brands but are priced at the top end of the scale.
Floplast is a good quality solid board that is mid-priced.
All modern boards perform well and should last decades if fitted correctly.